How to Remove Old Sod and Install a New Lawn (Equipment and Steps)

By the team at Beehive Rental & Sales — Serving Southern Utah's contractors and homeowners since 1994.

Laying new sod is one of the fastest ways to transform a yard, but the quality of the finished lawn depends almost entirely on what you do before the first roll goes down. Proper removal of old sod, thorough soil preparation, and correct installation technique are the difference between a lawn that thrives and one that dies within the first season. This guide walks through the complete process — removal through installation — with the equipment you need at every step.

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Quick Answer: Removing old sod and installing a new lawn requires a sod cutter ($75–$150/day rental), rototiller ($50–$75/day), lawn roller ($20–$40/day), and broadcast spreader for soil amendments. BeeHive Rental & Sales in St. George, Utah, carries all of this equipment — call (435) 628-6663 for availability. DIY sod installation costs $0.30–$0.80 per square foot compared to $1–$2 per square foot for professional installation.

Key Takeaways

• •A sod cutter is essential — It removes old lawn in clean strips in a fraction of the time that manual removal takes, and it produces a cleaner result than herbicides
• •Soil preparation is 80% of the job — Rototilling, amending with compost, and proper grading determine whether your new lawn thrives or fails
• •Timing matters in Southern Utah — Spring (March through May) and fall (September through October) are the best windows for sod installation in the St. George area
• •Install within 48 hours — Sod is a perishable product that must be laid within 48 hours of harvest, so have your prep work done before delivery day
• •Browse BeeHive's lawn care equipment inventory to plan your sod removal and installation project

When to Replace Your Sod

Not every struggling lawn needs a complete replacement. But there are situations where starting fresh is more practical than trying to rehabilitate what you have.

Replace When:

• •More than 50% of the lawn is dead or damaged — At this point, patching and overseeding won't produce a uniform lawn. Starting over is faster and produces better results.
• •You have the wrong grass type — If the previous owner planted cool-season grass (like Kentucky bluegrass) and you're tired of fighting St. George's summer heat, switching to bermuda or buffalo grass makes more sense than constant reseeding.
• •Severe thatch buildup — More than 1 inch of thatch chokes out healthy grass and resists water penetration. In extreme cases, removal and reinstallation is more effective than dethatching.
• •Major grading problems — If your lawn has low spots that pond water or slopes that send water toward your foundation, removing the sod, regrading, and reinstalling is the right approach.
• •Weed takeover — When weeds constitute more than 40% of the ground cover, the seed bank in the soil makes rehabilitation extremely difficult. Stripping the sod and starting with a clean slate is often the better investment.

Don't Replace When:

• •Dead patches are isolated and small (under 20% of the lawn) — overseed or patch instead
• •The grass is simply dormant (bermuda goes brown in winter — it's alive)
• •A single season of poor care caused temporary stress — lawn may recover with proper watering and fertilizing

Phase 1: Removing Old Sod

Equipment Needed

The sod cutter is the key rental for this phase. These walk-behind machines slice horizontally beneath the grass at a set depth, separating the sod (with roots and a thin layer of soil) from the ground below. The result is clean strips of sod that roll up easily for disposal.

Manual alternative: For very small areas (under 200 square feet), you can remove sod by hand with a flat shovel. Cut the turf into 12-inch wide strips using a straight-edged spade, then slide the shovel beneath the roots to separate the sod from the soil. This is physically demanding work — a 200 square foot area will take 2–3 hours by hand compared to 20 minutes with a sod cutter.

Step-by-Step Sod Removal

Step 1: Mow the existing lawn as short as possible. Set your mower to its lowest cutting height and mow the entire area. Short grass is easier for the sod cutter to handle and reduces the bulk of material you need to dispose of.

Step 2: Water the lawn the day before removal. Moist soil allows the sod cutter blade to slice cleanly. Dry, hard soil (especially St. George's caliche) causes the blade to skip and produces uneven cuts. Don't soak it — just a normal watering cycle.

Step 3: Set the sod cutter depth. Adjust the cutting depth to 1.5–2 inches. This captures the root zone while leaving the underlying soil intact. Too shallow and you leave roots behind. Too deep and you remove excess topsoil that you actually want to keep.

Step 4: Cut in straight, parallel strips. Start at one edge of the lawn and cut straight across. The sod cutter produces strips 12–18 inches wide (depending on the machine). Walk at a steady pace — too fast and the cut is ragged, too slow and the blade digs too deep.

Step 5: Roll up cut strips. Walk behind the sod cutter, rolling each strip as you go. Fresh-cut sod rolls easily when you start at one end and fold it over itself like a carpet roll. Each roll will weigh 20–40 pounds.

Step 6: Remove and dispose. Load rolled sod into a wheelbarrow or directly into a dump trailer. Disposal options in the St. George area include:

• •Green waste facilities — Check with Washington County Solid Waste for current locations and fees
• •Composting — Stack sod upside down in a pile; it will decompose into usable soil in 6–12 months
• •Free listing — Many people want free sod for fill or composting; list on local classifieds

Pro tip from BeeHive Rental & Sales: When you pick up your sod cutter, ask about pairing it with a dump trailer rental. Having a trailer on-site means you can cut and haul in one continuous flow rather than stacking sod and coming back for it later.

Phase 2: Soil Preparation

This is the most important phase of the entire project. New sod laid on poorly prepared soil will fail — guaranteed. Roots cannot penetrate compacted or nutrient-depleted soil, and the sod will yellow, develop gaps, and die within the first hot season.

Equipment Needed

Step-by-Step Soil Preparation

Step 1: Test your soil. Before you add anything to the soil, know what you are working with. Utah State University Extension in Washington County offers affordable soil testing. A basic test tells you pH level, nutrient content, and soil composition. Most St. George soils are alkaline (pH 7.5–8.5) and deficient in organic matter.

Step 2: Amend with compost. Spread 2–3 inches of quality compost across the entire area. This is the single most impactful thing you can do for a new lawn in Southern Utah. Compost improves:

• •Water retention — Critical in sandy desert soils that drain too fast
• •Nutrient content — Feeds the grass as it decomposes
• •Soil structure — Breaks up clay and adds body to sand
• •Beneficial microbiology — Introduces organisms that help roots absorb nutrients

For a 2,000 square foot lawn, you will need approximately 12–15 cubic yards of compost (2.5 inches deep).

Step 3: Rototill to 4–6 inches deep. Use a rear-tine rototiller to work the compost into the existing soil. Make two passes in perpendicular directions (north-south, then east-west) for thorough mixing. The goal is a uniform blend of compost and native soil to at least 4 inches deep.

Step 4: Apply starter fertilizer. Using a broadcast spreader, apply a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number in the N-P-K ratio). A typical rate is 1 pound of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet. Starter fertilizer promotes root development, which is critical for new sod establishment.

Step 5: Grade for drainage. Using a garden rake, grade the soil surface so it slopes away from your home's foundation at a minimum of 2% (roughly 1/4 inch per foot). Fill any low spots and knock down any high spots. The final grade should be approximately 1 inch below sidewalks, driveways, and other hard surfaces — this accounts for the thickness of the sod.

Step 6: Roll the seedbed. Use a lawn roller (filled about 1/3 with water) to lightly firm the soil surface. The goal is a surface that is firm enough that you don't sink more than 1/2 inch when you walk on it, but not so compacted that roots can't penetrate. Rolling also reveals any remaining low spots that need filling.

Step 7: Water the prepared soil. The day before sod delivery, water the prepared surface lightly. Moist soil helps the sod make immediate contact with the ground, speeding root establishment. Don't saturate — you want damp, not muddy.

Phase 3: Sod Installation

Choosing the Right Sod for St. George

Grass type selection is critical in Southern Utah. The wrong grass will struggle no matter how well you prepare.

Recommendation for most St. George homeowners: Bermuda grass for full-sun areas and tall fescue for shaded areas. Buffalo grass is the best option for homeowners who want the lowest possible water bill while still having a real lawn.

Best Timing for Sod Installation in Southern Utah

• •Spring (March–May): Ideal for warm-season grasses like bermuda. Soil temperatures are rising, and the grass enters its active growth phase, establishing roots quickly before summer heat.
• •Fall (September–October): Best for cool-season grasses like tall fescue. Moderate temperatures and less intense sun reduce transplant stress. Fall-planted fescue has all winter to establish roots before summer.
• •Avoid: June through August (extreme heat causes transplant shock) and November through February (cold-dormant grass won't root in).

Step-by-Step Sod Installation

Step 1: Schedule delivery for the morning. Sod is perishable. It begins deteriorating the moment it's harvested. In St. George's summer heat, sod left on a pallet in the sun can reach 140 degrees internally within hours, killing the grass. Order delivery for early morning and plan to finish installation the same day.

Step 2: Start along the longest straight edge. Lay the first row of sod along a straight edge — a sidewalk, driveway, or string line. Straight first rows make the entire job easier. Press each piece firmly against the soil, ensuring full contact with no air pockets underneath.

Step 3: Stagger seams like bricks. Start the second row with a half-piece of sod so the seams are offset from the first row. This "brick pattern" prevents visible seam lines and creates a stronger, more uniform lawn. Never allow four corners to meet at a single point.

Step 4: Push edges tight together. Butt each piece firmly against the adjacent piece — no gaps and no overlaps. Gaps dry out and die. Overlaps create bumps and dead spots where the lower piece smothers. On curves, use a sharp knife to trim pieces to fit.

Step 5: Avoid stretching the sod. Sod can stretch when you pull on it, but it will shrink back as it dries, leaving gaps. Handle sod gently and let it lie naturally.

Step 6: Roll the installed sod. Once a section is laid, go over it with the lawn roller (1/3 filled with water). Rolling presses the sod roots into firm contact with the soil below, eliminates air pockets, and smooths out minor bumps. Roll in perpendicular directions.

Step 7: Water immediately. As soon as a section is laid and rolled, water it. Don't wait until the entire yard is done — water each section as you complete it. The sod should receive enough water to soak through the sod and into the top 1 inch of soil beneath (usually about 1 inch of water). In St. George's heat, even a 30-minute delay between laying and watering can cause edges to brown.

Post-Installation Care

First Two Weeks (Establishment Phase)

• •Water 2–3 times per day for short durations (10–15 minutes each). The goal is to keep the sod and the soil beneath it consistently moist but not waterlogged.
• •Stay off the lawn — No foot traffic, no mowing, no pets. Roots need time to anchor.
• •Check daily — Lift a corner of sod to see if roots are reaching into the soil below. You should see white root tips penetrating the soil within 7–10 days.

Weeks 3–4 (Transition Phase)

• •Reduce watering to once daily, increasing the duration to encourage roots to grow deeper.
• •Mow for the first time when the grass reaches 3–4 inches tall. Set the mower high (3 inches) for the first mow. Never remove more than 1/3 of the blade height at once.
• •Light foot traffic is okay once you cannot lift the sod from the soil.

Weeks 5–8 (Maturation Phase)

• •Transition to normal watering schedule — Deep, infrequent watering (2–3 times per week in St. George during summer) encourages deep root growth.
• •Fertilize at 4–6 weeks with a balanced lawn fertilizer.
• •Resume normal use — The lawn is fully established.

Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Professional Sod Installation

The savings from DIY installation are substantial. For a 2,000 square foot lawn, you save $1,000–$2,400 by doing the work yourself. The equipment rental from BeeHive Rental & Sales is a fraction of the labor cost you would pay a professional crew.

Sod Installation Tips Specific to St. George

Southern Utah's desert climate creates unique challenges that don't apply in other parts of the country.

Caliche soil: St. George's calcium carbonate hardpan (caliche) prevents root penetration and water drainage. The rototilling and composting steps described above are not optional here — they are mandatory. Laying sod directly on caliche is a guaranteed failure.

Alkaline water: St. George's irrigation water has a pH around 8.0. Over time, this raises soil pH even higher, locking out iron and causing yellowing. Plan on applying iron sulfate or a soil acidifier twice per year.

Intense UV: Southern Utah's high elevation and clear skies mean intense UV radiation. Newly laid sod is especially vulnerable. The frequent watering during the first two weeks is partly about temperature management — evaporative cooling keeps the sod from cooking.

Wind: St. George can experience strong wind events that dry out sod rapidly. On windy days, increase watering frequency.

FAQ

How long does it take to remove and install sod on a 2,000 square foot lawn? With rental equipment, plan on one full day for removal and soil preparation, and a second day for sod installation. Two people working together with a sod cutter, rototiller, and roller can complete the entire project in a weekend. Without equipment, the same project takes 5–7 days of hard manual labor.

How soon after sod removal should I install new sod? Ideally, prepare the soil and install new sod within 1–2 days of removal. If you leave bare soil exposed for more than a week in St. George, wind will blow away loosened topsoil and weed seeds will germinate. If you need more time, lightly water the prepared soil every other day to keep it settled.

Can I lay new sod over old sod? No. New sod laid over old sod will not root properly. The old root mass creates a barrier that prevents the new roots from reaching the soil. It also creates a thatch layer that holds moisture against the crown of the new grass, promoting disease. Always remove old sod completely before installing new sod.

What is the best sod for St. George, Utah? Bermuda grass is the best all-around choice for St. George lawns. It thrives in heat, tolerates drought better than most turf grasses, handles heavy foot traffic, and establishes quickly. Hybrid bermuda (Tifway 419) produces a finer, denser lawn but requires more maintenance. For shaded areas, tall fescue is the better choice. For minimal water use, buffalo grass is the top option.

How much water does new sod need in St. George? New sod in St. George needs watering 2–3 times per day for the first two weeks (short, 10–15 minute sessions each time). After two weeks, reduce to once daily. After four weeks, transition to a deep watering 2–3 times per week. During July and August peak heat, new sod may need even more frequent watering during the establishment phase. Expect to use approximately 1 inch of water per day during the first two weeks.

A new lawn is one of the most satisfying home improvement projects you can tackle in a weekend. The key is having the right equipment and following the process in order: remove, prepare, install. BeeHive Rental & Sales at 1175 Highland Drive in St. George carries sod cutters, rototillers, lawn rollers, broadcast spreaders, dump trailers, and everything else you need for a flawless sod installation. Call (435) 628-6663 to reserve your equipment, or browse the rental catalog online to see what's available.